Engineered wood gives you the look of solid timber with far better stability, which matters in older Wallington terraces and newer flats alike. Before you commit, it helps to understand what suits your subfloor, your budget and how you actually live in the space.
Much of the local housing stock is Victorian and Edwardian, with suspended timber floors, plus a good number of 1930s semis and newer flats on concrete slabs. Solid wood expands and contracts with humidity, which can lead to gapping or cupping in these varied conditions. Engineered boards are built from a real hardwood top layer bonded to a plywood or HDF core, so they stay far more stable across the seasons.
That stability is the main reason engineered wood works over underfloor heating and in kitchens and hallways, where solid timber is riskier. You still get a genuine oak or walnut surface that can be sanded and refinished later, depending on the thickness of the wear layer.
The wear layer is the number that matters most. A 2mm top layer is fine for a bedroom, but for busy living areas and hallways look for 3mm to 6mm so the floor can be sanded back once or twice over its life.
Preparation is where most problems start. On a concrete slab, damp readings need to be within range and the floor flat to roughly 3mm over a 2 metre span, so latex levelling compound is often needed. Over suspended timber, loose or squeaking boards should be screwed down and any large gaps addressed first.
Boards can be glued down, secret nailed or floated over an underlay. Floating is quickest and works well over heating, while glued or nailed installs feel more solid underfoot. Always let the flooring acclimatise in the room for several days, and leave an expansion gap of around 10mm to 15mm around the perimeter, hidden by skirting or beading.
As a rough guide, engineered oak boards run from around £30 per square metre for thinner budget ranges to £70 or more for wider, thicker planks with a deep wear layer. Fitting is usually charged separately, commonly £20 to £40 per square metre depending on the method and subfloor prep involved.
Extras like levelling compound, underlay, beading and disposal of old flooring all add up, so it is worth getting these itemised. A proper survey of your floor before quoting avoids nasty surprises once the old covering comes up.
Yes, provided the board is rated for it and installed to the manufacturer's guidance on temperature limits. Floating installs with a compatible underlay are common, and you should bring the heating up gradually after fitting.
With reasonable care it can last 20 to 30 years or more. Boards with a 3mm or thicker wear layer can be sanded and refinished at least once, which resets the surface and extends its life considerably.
Kitchens are generally fine because of the stable construction, as long as spills are wiped up promptly. Bathrooms and wet rooms are not recommended, as standing water and high humidity can still damage the top layer over time.